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| How I Build Dioramas | |
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| Topic Started: Feb 14 2006, 10:13 AM (31,508 Views) | |
| JohnReid | Feb 14 2006, 10:13 AM Post #1 |
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  ![]](http://209.85.122.85/static/1/pip_r.png)
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| JohnReid | Feb 14 2006, 10:19 AM Post #2 |
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The above is a pic of a painting that I am using for reference in making my latest diorama.I hope to construct most of these buildings all in 1/16th scale.It will contain 2 airplanes,3 classic cars(at least),2 motorcycles and a trailer.I have been working on this for the past 2 years and have almost completed about 50%.(Ihope)  Cheers! John. |
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| JohnReid | Feb 14 2006, 10:41 AM Post #3 |
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| JohnReid | Feb 14 2006, 11:20 AM Post #4 |
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Sorry about the quality of the above pic.I think I forgot to put on my glasses or maybe I was just hung This pic shows just how simple it is to lite up this type of diorama.The 2 Xmas 5W bulbs are at the center of the roof and the other cords run to individual picture lites at the side wall where I wanted to depict the rising sun.This arrangement will be simplified as I just wanted to see how it looked before cutting and splicing the wires.The outside of the sheathing boards were painted black to stop light from shining through the thin boards.Those unpainted panels are removable panels used for picture taking purposes.Although it is hard to see the side panel has aluminium foil panels glued to the side to deflect the light onto the white painted shadow box container.(in this case an old TV cabinet) to be cont..... |
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| JohnReid | Feb 15 2006, 10:04 AM Post #5 |
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| JohnReid | Feb 15 2006, 10:45 AM Post #6 |
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The above pic shows the diorama with all the lights on, including the outside lighting along the backwall. Yesterday on the current diorama ,I have just about finished the woodworkers woodshop.I now have to remove the backwall again and plan to hookup the heating stove ,as well as glueing down a few odds and ends, that are not now accessable. I have definitely decided to add an engine shop to the L/H rear corner of the building next to the W/C structure.It will be a 9X11 modular add-on containing the 2nd OX5 engine undergoing a re-build.I plan to have lots of windows and a viewing panel in the roof,so it should be an interesting addition.I have begun the floor plan and research but I will wait till summer to build it outside in the nice weather.This modular idea sure allows for the maximum flexibility when scheduling add-ons. In the meantime I will finish the lighting,building the fixtures and installing the wiring .Then it will be on to finishing #1 Jenny,the Canuck.Next Fall and Winter I plan to build the 2nd Jenny,the JN 4D and maybe start on the radio shack/operations building. (Man plans,God laughs!) |
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| dawhitt | Feb 15 2006, 11:36 AM Post #7 |
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Great work so far John. At least you're working on your plan. I'm still planning my plan-perhaps later this summer when all the other projects are out of the way! Looks like one of those small Ontario towns-where they trained the pilots. I realize that these small bases were scattered across Canada. Looking forward to seeing it completed. Dan |
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| JohnReid | Feb 15 2006, 11:56 AM Post #8 |
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Ideas for dioramas/Thinking outside the box In Shep Paines book "How to Build Dioramas" (2nd edition)at the back of the book Chapter 16 he has added a section on mirrors,forced perspective and other special effects.This is what I mean about thinking outside the box.His HMS VICTORY gun deck with the moving ship outdside the portholes is another great example.This is where the real fun of diorama making exists.Trying to expand your creative horizons.It really isnt that hard if you have an open mind and a kids sense of play and go where your interests take you. I have an idea that I am working on at present that really is someone elses idea that I am taking one step further.When I was a bird carver I would often find myself looking at others work and saying "now why didnt I think of that".That is when I knew that I was somehow blocked in that field of creativity.I think that it had something to do with not understanding the subject completely.Since I have taken up diorama making the opposite is true.The ideas seem to be everywhere.I know that I will never be able to do everything at my age (I need a couple more lifetimes for that)But I sure am having fun at 64 ,being a kid again. I guess what I am trying to say is that when you are on the right track you will know it.If you have what you think is a great creative idea,go for it.Otherwise it could be lost forever. Cheers! John. __________________ It has been said that the difference between a "pilot" and an "aviator" is that a pilot is a technician,and an aviator is an artist in love with flight. JohnReid (Aviator) |
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| JohnReid | Feb 15 2006, 11:59 AM Post #9 |
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Dan,you are exactly right.It is a painting of the Toronto Airport in the 30s. Cheers! John. 
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| Deleted User | Feb 16 2006, 08:13 PM Post #10 |
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Really enjoy reading your tips and advice, please keep them coming, Ben |
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| JohnReid | Feb 17 2006, 10:58 AM Post #11 |
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| JohnReid | Feb 17 2006, 11:07 AM Post #12 |
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| JohnReid | Feb 17 2006, 11:54 AM Post #13 |
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The 2 pics above give you guys an idea of how I had originallu planned to display my first 2 dioramas.The badly out of focus pic is the Nieuport dio in an old TV cabinet.Not bad but too low to the ground . The 2nd pic shows the Albatros diorama on top of the cabinet.I had planned to make a nice walnut base for it to sit on and install a motor that would turn at 1 or 2 rpm. None of this will be happening now that they are going to the museum as they will be making their own cabinets to house them. I have seen a nice idea on the EAA website for displaying dioramas.The diorama sits at an angle to the viewer see; http://www.airventuremuseum.org/virtual/warbirds2.asp |
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| JohnReid | Feb 17 2006, 11:55 AM Post #14 |
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Glad you are enjoying it Ben. Cheers! John. |
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| JohnReid | Feb 18 2006, 08:02 AM Post #15 |
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Weathering diecasts (Cars Or Airplanes) I have been experimenting with doing a lot of heavy weathering on diecasts recently.It is really a lot of fun although it seems a little funny creating something by destroying something else.(like a really cool paintjob)Anyway, it has got me to thinking about using diecasts in dioramas.There is a lot of potential here for those who like dioramas but havent got the time to scratchbuild everything. There are some really nice WW2 fighters in 1/18th scale being produced now, and I am sure that with time there will be some WW1s offered.They are also making more figures in 1/18th scale as well and then you have your pick if you would like to add cars to your diorama. I know that there are some WW1 diecasts offered in smaller scales and that would be a great place to start.Put them in a nice dioramic setting,weather them as little or as much as you want and for minimum time and effort ,your now a dioramist.You could rig the biplanes as little or as much as you want depending on your storyline.With a little imagination the sky is the limit. The hardest hurtle to get over is to take that nice shiny airplane, that you have paid multi bucks for and screw up the surface.Once you get over this the rest is easy.Over the next couple of days I will offer a tutorial on what works best for me.I hope that I am leaving you guys who are interested in dioramas but have not yet started, less and less reasons not to get on with it..Cheers! John. ( P.S. try to find a source of damaged or 2nds if you can.) __________________ It has been said that the difference between a "pilot" and an "aviator" is that a pilot is a technician,and an aviator is an artist in love with flight. JohnReid (Aviator) |
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| JohnReid | Feb 18 2006, 08:51 AM Post #16 |
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| JohnReid | Feb 18 2006, 09:07 AM Post #17 |
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The paint finish on most diecasts is enamel, I beleive.So I guess it would be wise to take some precautions with the paint dust.The composition of the metal contains no lead,which is good news. To take the shine off the enamel paint I use 600 grit sandpaper to dull it down to a flat finish.Acrylics seem to stick well to a sanded surface,if not mix in a little gesso.The surface that I am presently dealing with is mostly black so I have it easy and I am using black gesso.Gesso comes in black ,white, grey,and burnt umber. Chaulk pastels come in all colors and stick really well to a sanded surface.I use those soft makeup brushes that women use when applying makeup or cops use when dusting for fingerprints.They come in all sizes so you will have to experiment a bit here.The more you load up the brush the more color will be transfered.Try to build the color up in subtle layers. To grind up the pastels ,I use ordinary sandpaper and dunk my brush into the fine dust. Cheers! John. |
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| JohnReid | Feb 19 2006, 10:30 AM Post #18 |
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| JohnReid | Feb 19 2006, 10:32 AM Post #19 |
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How to make any surface rusty and corroded This seems to work on any surface plastic,wood,metal whatever. The secret is in surface preporation.It works even on a highly polished enamel surface. Prepare the surface by sanding off the shiny new surface with 600 or higher sandpaper.You want to dull the surface not create scratches.Rub until all the shine is gone.Next paint the surface with a 50/50 gesso -water mix and dry with a hair dryer if you like.Dont set the hair dryer too close to the surface but just blow the warm air across it.(you can always just air dry it if you want) Now if you want to put some color on, put it on in thin layers (at least a 50/50 mix,even more water if you are using tube colors)Dont completely cover the gesso surface with a solid new color if you want a real antique look,some of the undercoat should show through. Now the fun part.Take some watered down burnt sienna and using an old brush and a washboard surface vigorosly scrub the paint until it foams up.Then take this foamy paint,bubbles and all and dap it onto the surface.Dry with a hair dryer and repeat as many times as necessary to get that nice rusty and corroded looks.Works great on old barrells,oil cans,engines ,cars whatever needs antiqueing.Take your time and have fun,I sure am. Cheers! John. |
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| JohnReid | Feb 19 2006, 10:43 AM Post #20 |
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Antiqueing a chrome or nickel surface I hope that I am not boring you guys with all this antiqueing of surfaces but I just want to share what I have discovered up until now. To antique a chrome or nickel suface: -immerse the part in household ammonia till all the chrome disappears of the part -take an old toothbrush and scrape off any remnants -deburr any mold lines -paint part with 50/50 black gesso-water mix -paint on one thin coat of acrylic silver (let some of the black undercoat show through) -when dry,dab on the foamy burnt sienna(Dabbing is the secret to an authentic looking surface) -Dab on as many coats as you like but let some of the silver show through. Remember work with very thin flat acrylic paint.You want to build up transparent layers not cover up all your hard work.Hey! this is fun. Cheers! John. |
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| JohnReid | Feb 19 2006, 02:30 PM Post #21 |
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A few tips when painting with Acrylics Here are a few painting tips that I would hand out to my students when they were painting with acrylics.They are in no particular order. -when handling your piece attach a handle or wear cotton gloves -to remove skin oils,grease etc spray piece with windex(with ammonia) and dab dry. -best light source is daylight otherwise use a combination of incandescent and flourescent.(one part cool flourescent,two parts warm incandescent. -use old film canisters and save a little of each color you mix (in case of accidents) -keep a running log of how you achieved your colors and the sequence in with you painted the piece. -make up a log book and keep a sample of each color you mix .Remember acryilics dry darker than what you mix when wet.(like latex wall paint) -Mix up twice as much paint as you think you will need, because if you run out of a paint mix you may have a hell of a job mixing the exact same color again. -A good all round paint mix seems to be a mix of JoSonja and Liquitex(in the 2 oz jars)Jo Sonja tends to flatten the finish while liquitex tends to harden the finish and add sheen or luster. -JoSonja satin finishing varnish can be added to JoSonja paints to add durability and luster to an otherwise flat surface. -flow medium or water tension breaker added to water will help paint flow off the tip of your brush. -To warm up white add raw umber -to warm up black add burnt umber -never use black or white straight out of the tube. -always buy the best brushes that you can afford. -carefully clean and point up your brushes after each use(I use Ivory Snow soap) -Mix your colors on a piece of glass with a white paper towel under the glass. I have many other tips but they apply mostly to painting textured carvings. Cheers! John. |
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| JohnReid | Feb 20 2006, 11:57 AM Post #22 |
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Lighting/1/16th Tractors Yesterday I finally finished off the Woodworkers workshop and installed the woodstove and its piping.On the workbench I have 2 things going on,a laminated prop that is geeting its final coats of varnish and wood strip ungoing a bending process with clamps and a jig.I really enjoy looking through the windows especially from the darkened hangar. I will try to take some more pics in the next few days so you guys can get an idea of where I am now in this build. I have started working on the hangar lighting fixtures of which I will need at least 12 (maybe more)When they are finished I will temporarily install them and put the airplane ,cars and furniture in and see where the light falls and then adjust their positions accordingly. Around Xmas time I picked up some small brass bells (same as in the Albatros diorama) and am scratchbuilding the fixtures using brass tube,washers etc...I will paint the finished assemblies black or grey.The lighting intensity will be regulated with a reostat.I will have the modules on seperate circuits with on off switches so I can light up different sections for picture taking purposes.While at the museum ,I dont think that they would bother with this aspect, it is one of the things that I have always personally enjoyed,looking from the outside into a warm enviroment.(Something like you see on the beer commercials at Christmas time.) I have a question for you guys,do you know how airport runways or fields were maintained during the Winter .I know here in Canada a lot of aircraft were equipped with skis.Was any of the snow removed and if so, how was it removed?In one of the future buildings I would like to put an old tractor in it that could have been used for maintenance around the airport removing snow etc..It will be a 34 Deere with a square rad and steel wheels,which I will modify to an earlier date..Earlier models in the mid 20s were similar and a few well placed tarps and restricted viewing windows should take care of any major differences. If anyone happens to know if 1/16th mid 20s tractors are available ,please let me know. Cheers! John. __________________ It has been said that the difference between a "pilot" and an "aviator" is that a pilot is a technician,and an aviator is an artist in love with flight. JohnReid (Aviator) |
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| JohnReid | Feb 20 2006, 01:06 PM Post #23 |
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Dioramas are basically an assortment of parts put together in a creative way.Some are totally scratchbuilt, others are not.My personal view is that this really doesnt matter,I have done both.What is important is the viewer of the diorama.The artistic goal is to get the viewer emotionally involved with your piece so that they can relate to it and be moved in some way.If they can look at your piece and years later recall the experience, then you have accomplished your goal. As far as making the parts are concerned I use a multi-media appraoach.I will use anything that works to accomplish my goal.Wood ,plastic,metal,popsicle sticks,tongue depressors etc etc.... When I am in the stores I am constantly looking for anything that may work in my dioramas.I have found greats things in dressmakers shops,dollar stores,hobby shops,hardware stores,bookstores,fabric stores,on and on.Then of course there is the internet ,where the sky is the limit for artistic ideas. As far as custom made parts are concerned,good research is the key.If you can build a model you can make a diorama.I am the worlds worst carpenter(just ask my wife)I have no interest in it and it shows.But if you are able to build models, plastic or otherwise and have the interest and a creative mind,be prepared to have some fun. In the pages of this thread ,I have covered a lot of the how tos, so I wont repeat it here.Really, what it all boils down to is, just doing it.Forget fear of making mistakes cause there are none.There is a learning curve that all artists/craftsman have to go through so we just have to accept that.If you have the interest you are already 99% of the way there.Why dont you join us in this wonderful adventure? Cheers! John |
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| JohnReid | Feb 20 2006, 02:44 PM Post #24 |
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While I am on the subject of painting with acrylics here is a birdcarving that I did 10 years ago.I call the piece "Sacked" in honour to all the linebackers in the NFL. |
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| JohnReid | Feb 20 2006, 02:55 PM Post #25 |
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