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| How I Build Dioramas | |
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| Topic Started: Feb 14 2006, 10:13 AM (31,546 Views) | |
| JohnReid | Jul 13 2009, 01:51 PM Post #3576 |
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  ![]](http://209.85.122.85/static/1/pip_r.png)
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| JohnReid | Jul 13 2009, 07:31 PM Post #3577 |
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| JohnReid | Jul 14 2009, 02:11 PM Post #3578 |
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| JohnReid | Jul 15 2009, 10:45 AM Post #3579 |
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 This pic is a portion of the original picture that I am using for reference.The windows look a little more elongated than mine.Maybe mine are too wide? Edited by JohnReid, Jul 15 2009, 10:52 AM.
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| JohnReid | Jul 15 2009, 04:18 PM Post #3580 |
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 My first attempt at brickwork. |
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| JohnReid | Jul 15 2009, 04:20 PM Post #3581 |
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| JohnReid | Jul 15 2009, 04:34 PM Post #3582 |
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My bricks are 5X15mm at 1/16th scale,slightly bigger than the ones on my house.I am using Arches Watercolor 708-78 natural white 300LB/640 GSM in 22X30 Inch boards.They are cut to size with an Xacto15 inch rotary paper trimmer and are glued directly to the foam board with carpenters glue. |
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| JohnReid | Jul 15 2009, 04:36 PM Post #3583 |
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| JohnReid | Jul 15 2009, 04:47 PM Post #3584 |
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This figure is standing on the boardwalk that runs along the backyard wall.The lines drawn on the left are the fence dimensions while on the right is the backdoor .From ground level to the door threshold will be either cement wall or concrete blocks(cinder blocks in those days?) A plain cement wall is not very interesting but Andi's irregular block wall at the foundation looks excellent. |
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| JohnReid | Jul 15 2009, 04:49 PM Post #3585 |
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| JohnReid | Jul 17 2009, 09:22 AM Post #3586 |
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 revised design |
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| JohnReid | Jul 17 2009, 07:19 PM Post #3587 |
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| JohnReid | Jul 17 2009, 07:27 PM Post #3588 |
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| JohnReid | Jul 17 2009, 07:28 PM Post #3589 |
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| JohnReid | Jul 17 2009, 07:55 PM Post #3590 |
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When the measurements are done it is time to start cutting in with the Xacto knife.I started with what I call the dining room window which is the largest on the back facade. Keeping your xacto (new blade,change often) 90 degs to the surface cut into the foam board.I do this freehand and make a couple of passes until it is cut all the way through.At this stage I don't try to be too exact as the foamboard is soft and easily damaged.Put another piece of foam board behind the cutout and trace the perimeter of the window.Cut this piece out as well and line it up and glue it to the back creating a double thickness.This will allow for a secure surface for our window frame pieces and add a more realistic look to the thickness of the wall.When dry start fitting your frame pieces,do not glue for now but make a tight fit.I cut mine slightly oversize and fit and sand,fit and sand until they fit snugly .Get out a small square and adjust the foamboard until the frames fit 90deg to each other. It is time consuming to do but I thank my lucky stars that I am only doing a plain outdoor facade and not your typical Victorian moldings that you would find on the inside. |
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| JohnReid | Jul 18 2009, 04:42 PM Post #3591 |
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| JohnReid | Jul 18 2009, 04:43 PM Post #3592 |
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| JohnReid | Jul 19 2009, 06:46 PM Post #3593 |
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My Victorian Row House. After a lot of research the following measurements seem to be consistent with a typical North American Victorian row house.From the lower level floor to the upper level ceiling is about 21 feet 6 inches. The top of the piece of cardboard at the bottom of the foam board represents the top of the exterior boardwalk.There are two rows of blocks to the top of the foundation,a 2" cap strip and 2"X10" joists to the lower level floor.From floor to window sill is 30"and from floor to ceiling is 10feet.I have allowed 18" between the ceiling to the top of the upper floor level for joists,plaster ceiling, sub-floor and floor.Then another 30" to the upper window sill and again 10 feet to the ceiling.(Victorian ceilings were high) The upper rooms are 12 feet in width to their center lines ,the actual room size would be less due to studs,walls etc...The lower levels widths are 12 feet for the dining room and about 10 for the kitchen ,the rest is the 30" wide door and storage area,the overall width is about 30 feet.Above the door is the bathroom so that the run of the plumbing is consistent with the kitchen area. The doors and windows are tall and narrow to allow for indoor/outdoor air circulation. The external roof line has yet to be established but it is usually a little above the upper window. Please advise me if you guys notice anything obviously wrong with the measurements. Edited by JohnReid, Jul 19 2009, 07:04 PM.
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| Marken | Jul 19 2009, 07:15 PM Post #3594 |
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Nice start John. Sounds like you've done lot's of research on this one. Looks good so far. |
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| JohnReid | Jul 20 2009, 05:56 PM Post #3595 |
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Thanks Ken! A lot of this is new to me so it takes awhile for me to figure it all out. 
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| JohnReid | Jul 22 2009, 09:51 PM Post #3596 |
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| JohnReid | Jul 22 2009, 09:52 PM Post #3597 |
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This is boring stuff ,no doubt about it.It is one of those jobs that separates the men from the boys (or should I say wackos from the normals.) |
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| Marken | Jul 22 2009, 10:24 PM Post #3598 |
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I actually enjoy carving bricks in plaster. Just put the headphones on and crank up some April Wine or Tull and away I go. And I consider my self almost normal 
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| JohnReid | Jul 25 2009, 08:55 AM Post #3599 |
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| JohnReid | Jul 25 2009, 07:05 PM Post #3600 |
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